I've been buying seeds suitable for planting for this time of year.. like broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, collards, onions, carrots...
At school i checked out the companion planting guide and got excited about the chook pen and setting it up with my seeds. So yesterday after school i went up to the chook pen to see where the sun was setting to get an idea of how to plan out the garden.
I sat in the centre and realised pretty soon that the sun was in a different place to where i 'thought' it was when i sketched a quick map earlier. I also realised it depended where i sat in the garden as to the position of west, so it made me realise there must be a better method to get an accurate idea of the sun's path. i.e. a compass lol
I mapped out the room, the shelter and the trees and the areas their foliage reached, as well as the border of the space, including the actual chook pen. Then i estimated the areas where the property sloped a bit where there are already beds built into the earth from previous occupants.
The whole area is really overgrown at the moment and in need of clearing before i can start planting. I'd love to get hold of a sickle to clear it but i think we'll be using machetes, then piling grass up on the beds to mulch.
I'm a bit fearful of snakes up there cos it's a bit remote from the house, and being up there alone feels a little scary to me at times cos of the length of the grass. Forest had a fierce snake launch at him recently from the roof of the house up there.
Forest is getting some compost for the garden from his heap he's had cooking, and then over Friday and the weekend we'll be getting the space up there cleared to get beds ready for planting.
I'm intending on planting some of the same stuff we planted at school yesterday in the same manner, as well as other companion plants.
A record of my journey as i spend what promises to be a wonderfully rich and diverse year immersed in permaculture studies at Djanbung Gardens in Nimbin, NSW... I am really learning how to LIVE and thrive while creating a harmonious, sustainable and self sufficient lifestyle for my family, our community, and our planet... step by step.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Garden beds and compost tea
Yesterday we laid our first garden at school...
We made a compost tea with:
1 cup of compost
1 cup of KOR compost
1/2 cup of worm casting
2 tbsp molasses
2 caps seasol
2 caps liquid humus (NTS)
put ingredients in a shadecloth bag, then dunk like a teabag in 4 buckets of water.
To garden bed, add
Dolamite
Gypsum
Agricultural Lime
mineral rocks, cracker dust
we laid the light materials first, so we could see the layers as we added the next ingredients on the bed.
After the composts, we used a fork to till the soil, lowering the tines in then using the wooden part of the fork to lever the soil up to aerate it, careful not to disturb the layers of nutrients we'd added.
After aerating the soil, we used the flat edge of a garden rake to smooth out lumps. Then we lay wet newspaper, a couple of layers thick over the whole surface of the bed, tucked into the edges to stop weeds coming through.
Then we laid thick straw to the point where there was no newspaper visible through the straw. After the straw was levelled out, we hosed it to dampen it in.
Then we constructed a tripod out of bamboo to act as a climbing surface for beans. Around each leg of the tripod, we planted 4 beans. The rough edges of the bamboo where the leaves shoot from were left on the tripod to give the beans something to cling to.
After planting the beans, we planted three globe artichoke seedlings in the centre row of the bed, to provide some shade. Then closer to the edge of the bed we planted broccoli seedlings a butterfly handspan apart, all the way along. Around each of the broccoli seedlings we planted onion seedlings, around 5, in a scalloping row to the left of the broccoli then semi circling behind and around it then onwards to the next broccoli.
On the other side of the globe artichokes, towards the middle of the bed, we planted beetroot seedlings in a zig zag fashion.
Along the edge where the onions were planted, we also planted turnips and lettuce.
In the centre between the artichokes, we planted petunias to attract the right kinds of insects and also because they're edible.
We made a compost tea with:
1 cup of compost
1 cup of KOR compost
1/2 cup of worm casting
2 tbsp molasses
2 caps seasol
2 caps liquid humus (NTS)
put ingredients in a shadecloth bag, then dunk like a teabag in 4 buckets of water.
To garden bed, add
Dolamite
Gypsum
Agricultural Lime
mineral rocks, cracker dust
we laid the light materials first, so we could see the layers as we added the next ingredients on the bed.
After the composts, we used a fork to till the soil, lowering the tines in then using the wooden part of the fork to lever the soil up to aerate it, careful not to disturb the layers of nutrients we'd added.
After aerating the soil, we used the flat edge of a garden rake to smooth out lumps. Then we lay wet newspaper, a couple of layers thick over the whole surface of the bed, tucked into the edges to stop weeds coming through.
Then we laid thick straw to the point where there was no newspaper visible through the straw. After the straw was levelled out, we hosed it to dampen it in.
Then we constructed a tripod out of bamboo to act as a climbing surface for beans. Around each leg of the tripod, we planted 4 beans. The rough edges of the bamboo where the leaves shoot from were left on the tripod to give the beans something to cling to.
After planting the beans, we planted three globe artichoke seedlings in the centre row of the bed, to provide some shade. Then closer to the edge of the bed we planted broccoli seedlings a butterfly handspan apart, all the way along. Around each of the broccoli seedlings we planted onion seedlings, around 5, in a scalloping row to the left of the broccoli then semi circling behind and around it then onwards to the next broccoli.
On the other side of the globe artichokes, towards the middle of the bed, we planted beetroot seedlings in a zig zag fashion.
Along the edge where the onions were planted, we also planted turnips and lettuce.
In the centre between the artichokes, we planted petunias to attract the right kinds of insects and also because they're edible.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Cracks!
Cracks in the earth and cracks in bark form to allow moisture in.
Pretty clever design really :)
Pretty clever design really :)
Seed banking and plant families
Learning the family names of the various plants i want to grow is something I'd like to do over the coming months. Apparently they change fairly regularly, and there are sub families and all sorts of other quite complicated links so it's going to be an interesting path.
Yesterday we went through the seed bank at school and discarded the seeds that were past their viability dates.
Each of us had a family to find the seed packs for, and I had Solanaceae. Solanaceae is also known as the nightshade family. It includes potatoes, capsicum, tomatoes, eggplant, chilli, as well as datura, paprika, tobacco and belladonna.
We then took the viable seeds to the nursery and made up potting mix for seedlings, as it's the first quarter and time to sow seeds.
The soil we used was made up of 3 buckets of potting mix, 1 bucket of compost and some sand-like product that i think came from basalt.
The compost and potting mix were sifted first into a large bucket, then mixed together and then scooped into seedling pots. We then used our fingers to dip a hole in each punnet and placed a seed in each hole. After covering the seed with more soil, we used the bottom of another punnet to press the soil down.
It's vital that enough nutrients are present in the early stage of growth, as it sets the plant up for being healthy and strong.
Seedlings need to be watered twice a day.
Yesterday we went through the seed bank at school and discarded the seeds that were past their viability dates.
Each of us had a family to find the seed packs for, and I had Solanaceae. Solanaceae is also known as the nightshade family. It includes potatoes, capsicum, tomatoes, eggplant, chilli, as well as datura, paprika, tobacco and belladonna.
We then took the viable seeds to the nursery and made up potting mix for seedlings, as it's the first quarter and time to sow seeds.
The soil we used was made up of 3 buckets of potting mix, 1 bucket of compost and some sand-like product that i think came from basalt.
The compost and potting mix were sifted first into a large bucket, then mixed together and then scooped into seedling pots. We then used our fingers to dip a hole in each punnet and placed a seed in each hole. After covering the seed with more soil, we used the bottom of another punnet to press the soil down.
It's vital that enough nutrients are present in the early stage of growth, as it sets the plant up for being healthy and strong.
Seedlings need to be watered twice a day.
Garden foraging
The tips of pumpkin shoots and a couple of leaves surrounding the tip can be nipped off and used in cooking.. so can the flowers, but don't take too many flowers or you won't get pumpkins!
The pic below shows a female flower and the ovary.
To prepare the pumpkin tips, just blanch them and add a dash of sesame oil, some tamari and voila. Delicious!
The browner leaves on a cassava plant can also be used in the same way.
Robyn showed us how carrots can be hidden away underground, in good condition, as they store well underground. She used a garden fork to lift the dirt near some straggly looking carrot tops, and there were about 8 carrots brought to the surface. It was amazing to see how much was underground without a sign on top of the soil!
The pic below shows a female flower and the ovary.
To prepare the pumpkin tips, just blanch them and add a dash of sesame oil, some tamari and voila. Delicious!
The browner leaves on a cassava plant can also be used in the same way.
Robyn showed us how carrots can be hidden away underground, in good condition, as they store well underground. She used a garden fork to lift the dirt near some straggly looking carrot tops, and there were about 8 carrots brought to the surface. It was amazing to see how much was underground without a sign on top of the soil!
Moon Planting
When to sow seeds relates to the moon and its phases.
Sowing particular seeds at the new moon gives them the best chance to grow.
In the first quarter, the new moon phase, sow leafy vegetables.
The energy (and the sap) is still fresh rising - this is a good phase for starting anything. Plant, graft and transplant annuals that produce above ground, especially of a vine-type with seeds produced inside (like beans, peas, peppers, squash and tomatoes).
Plant cereals and grains. All activities listed for the New Moon phase are just as successful if done now. The last two days of this phase, just before the Full Moon are considered optimum for planting, and grafts take best if done at this time.
By the First quarter phase the Moon is rising at noon, setting at midnight. She slowly grows in light, illuminating the first half of the night sky.
In the third quarter, sow rooting vegetables, perennials. This is also a good time to take cuttings.
In the fourth quarter, WEED :) no planting.. just weeding.
Harvest bamboo and trees in waning cycle of the moon as less sugar is in production.
Harvest garlic in the 4th quarter.
Purple text taken from "PLANTING BY THE MOON
This is an ancient planting system known to every early culture throughout the world. One again it is becoming popular as people search for alternatives to chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and their frightening side effects. Working with the appropriate phase of the Moon for all aspects of planting, cultivation, and harvesting will increase quality as well as quantity in your crops. Many herbalists are using this system and producing vastly more potent medicinal and culinary plants."
http://www.users.on.net/~arachne/MoonPlanting.html
The thing that stands out to me about moon planting is how much it relates to all of life, to do things at certain phases. We are such cyclical creatures, and so is the environment around us. The fourth quarter advice for "Weeding" really stood out to me. There are times to commence growing in new directions, there are times to dig roots deeply into the ground and there are times to cut back the stuff that is inhibiting growth.
Permacultural studies speak to me about so much more than gardening, growing food and being self sufficient. I have no doubt there is ancient wisdom passed through to us when we truly connect to the earth... the threads connecting every aspect of life and the intricate ways in which they are woven leave me awestruck, humbled and often in tears. The responsibility of awareness is at once inspiring, exciting and daunting. It's daunting because being at the spearhead, when most of society isn't operating in the same way, with the same kind of awareness is fucking hard. It's inspiring because it shows me what's possible if i do take responsibility for my own footprint. At the basis of this is my belief that what i see around me reflects what is in me.. so in finetuning and refining my choices on my path, making conscious choices that are loving to both me, my loved ones and the planet, i have great hope of dominoing the fuck out of Monsanto and the gang.
http://www.wytchyways.com/Astro-Chart-2012-WEB.jpg
Sowing particular seeds at the new moon gives them the best chance to grow.
In the first quarter, the new moon phase, sow leafy vegetables.
Every living thing feels an upsurge of energy - the sap is rising. A great time to plant or to start any projects, although some believe that it is better to wait until you can actually see the crescent of the New Moon.
Plant, graft and transplant annuals that produce above ground, especially those of a leafy kind that produce seeds outside the fruit, also cereals and grains.
Don't pick anything as it rots too easily at this time. Mow lawns to increase growth. Plants need more oxygen at this time.
The Moon rises and sets with the Sun at this time, and for the first one or two days is invisible. Every night she sets approximately one hour later; and can first been seen as a waxing crescent (increasing in light) close to the Sun, at sunset.
In the second quarter, sow beans, peas, pumpkin, grain crops, fruiting vegetables.Plant, graft and transplant annuals that produce above ground, especially those of a leafy kind that produce seeds outside the fruit, also cereals and grains.
Don't pick anything as it rots too easily at this time. Mow lawns to increase growth. Plants need more oxygen at this time.
The Moon rises and sets with the Sun at this time, and for the first one or two days is invisible. Every night she sets approximately one hour later; and can first been seen as a waxing crescent (increasing in light) close to the Sun, at sunset.
The energy (and the sap) is still fresh rising - this is a good phase for starting anything. Plant, graft and transplant annuals that produce above ground, especially of a vine-type with seeds produced inside (like beans, peas, peppers, squash and tomatoes).
Plant cereals and grains. All activities listed for the New Moon phase are just as successful if done now. The last two days of this phase, just before the Full Moon are considered optimum for planting, and grafts take best if done at this time.
By the First quarter phase the Moon is rising at noon, setting at midnight. She slowly grows in light, illuminating the first half of the night sky.
In the third quarter, sow rooting vegetables, perennials. This is also a good time to take cuttings.
There is a peaking of the electromagnetic energy of all living things at the exact time of the Full Moon, and then a slow withdrawal of energy for the next two weeks, as the Moon wanes.
Plant perennials, biennials, bulb and root crops and anything that produces below ground. The sap flow is downwards into the roots. Pruning is most successful now, and it is an excellent time to harvest all crops. Medicinal herbs and plants are most potent when picked now. This is a great time for sprouting seeds to eat, but not so good for sprouting seeds for planting, as there is a good initial growth spurt with only spindly follow through.
The Full Moon rises brilliant and full at sunset illuminating the sky for the whole night. It will rise later and later in the evening as it moves through its waning phase.
Plant perennials, biennials, bulb and root crops and anything that produces below ground. The sap flow is downwards into the roots. Pruning is most successful now, and it is an excellent time to harvest all crops. Medicinal herbs and plants are most potent when picked now. This is a great time for sprouting seeds to eat, but not so good for sprouting seeds for planting, as there is a good initial growth spurt with only spindly follow through.
The Full Moon rises brilliant and full at sunset illuminating the sky for the whole night. It will rise later and later in the evening as it moves through its waning phase.
In the fourth quarter, WEED :) no planting.. just weeding.
Harvest bamboo and trees in waning cycle of the moon as less sugar is in production.
Harvest garlic in the 4th quarter.
This is a barren phase, where it is most appropriate to rest or to prepare for the next New Moon. It is great for cultivation - pulling weeds, turning the earth, pruning. Apply organic fertilizers any time during the Waning Moon, from Full Moon onward. Mow lawns to decrease growth.
This is the best phase for harvesting crops that you want to store for a period of time without rotting or losing flavour. Transplant close to the end of this period for an easy recovery with little trauma.
Set fence posts, spread manure. Weeds pulled now have no strength to sprout again.
The Last Quarter Moon rises at midnight in the beginning of the phase, showing us her slowly vanishing crescent in the early morning eastern sky. She then moves closer to the Sun until she becomes visible for the last day or two of the phase. The cycle is complete.
This is the best phase for harvesting crops that you want to store for a period of time without rotting or losing flavour. Transplant close to the end of this period for an easy recovery with little trauma.
Set fence posts, spread manure. Weeds pulled now have no strength to sprout again.
The Last Quarter Moon rises at midnight in the beginning of the phase, showing us her slowly vanishing crescent in the early morning eastern sky. She then moves closer to the Sun until she becomes visible for the last day or two of the phase. The cycle is complete.
Purple text taken from "PLANTING BY THE MOON
This is an ancient planting system known to every early culture throughout the world. One again it is becoming popular as people search for alternatives to chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and their frightening side effects. Working with the appropriate phase of the Moon for all aspects of planting, cultivation, and harvesting will increase quality as well as quantity in your crops. Many herbalists are using this system and producing vastly more potent medicinal and culinary plants."
http://www.users.on.net/~arachne/MoonPlanting.html
The thing that stands out to me about moon planting is how much it relates to all of life, to do things at certain phases. We are such cyclical creatures, and so is the environment around us. The fourth quarter advice for "Weeding" really stood out to me. There are times to commence growing in new directions, there are times to dig roots deeply into the ground and there are times to cut back the stuff that is inhibiting growth.
Permacultural studies speak to me about so much more than gardening, growing food and being self sufficient. I have no doubt there is ancient wisdom passed through to us when we truly connect to the earth... the threads connecting every aspect of life and the intricate ways in which they are woven leave me awestruck, humbled and often in tears. The responsibility of awareness is at once inspiring, exciting and daunting. It's daunting because being at the spearhead, when most of society isn't operating in the same way, with the same kind of awareness is fucking hard. It's inspiring because it shows me what's possible if i do take responsibility for my own footprint. At the basis of this is my belief that what i see around me reflects what is in me.. so in finetuning and refining my choices on my path, making conscious choices that are loving to both me, my loved ones and the planet, i have great hope of dominoing the fuck out of Monsanto and the gang.
http://www.wytchyways.com/Astro-Chart-2012-WEB.jpg
Berkley Bacterial Compost Heap
Today we built a bacterial compost heap, using 60% carbon, 40% manure.
First we cleaned out the pig pen, duck house and chicken hutch to collect all their poo. Then wheelbarrow load after wheelbarrow load was taken to the spot we built the heap.
We made it 1m cubed, lasagne-ing layers of straw, then pig poo, straw, duck poo, straw, chicken poo and an occasional bit of comfrey thrown in between layers.
We built the perimeter of each layer first, to ensure we kept it a cube shape and it didn't taper off ending up like a pyramid. It's important to keep it the cube shape so that the heating occurs. Plant pathogens are killed by the heat, and some weed seeds will also be made sterile.
We hosed it all down at the end and covered it lightly with sacks to make the water run off a bit so the nutrients weren't all lost.
The style of compost heap is known as a Berkley compost.. and in 3 or 4 days it needs to be turned, so that the outer layers which won't be as hot as the centre, get a chance to 'cook'. It then needs to be turned several more times in following weeks, and it's ready for use in 3 wks.
Because the centre of the pile becomes extremely hot, and we used a bamboo pole to make a chimney of sorts.. making a vent to let heat escape, because apparently compost heaps can get so hot they combust.
The animal poo wasn't smelly at all, and the compost wasn't either. If the compost starts to smell it's a sign it's anaerobic, which can occur if it gets waterlogged too.
Berkley compost:
A-live
D-iversity
A-erobic
M-oisture
The carbon component can be made up of straw, dry plant material, hay, leaf debris gathered from the chook forage area.
Nitrogen component is from manure and legume leaves (when green), pig poo, duck poo, chicken poo.
Air
Water
A compost heap can create enough heat to provide hot water to your home! Jean Pain came up with this great concept... here's a short vid on how it works.
Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Jm-c9B2_ew
First we cleaned out the pig pen, duck house and chicken hutch to collect all their poo. Then wheelbarrow load after wheelbarrow load was taken to the spot we built the heap.
We made it 1m cubed, lasagne-ing layers of straw, then pig poo, straw, duck poo, straw, chicken poo and an occasional bit of comfrey thrown in between layers.
We built the perimeter of each layer first, to ensure we kept it a cube shape and it didn't taper off ending up like a pyramid. It's important to keep it the cube shape so that the heating occurs. Plant pathogens are killed by the heat, and some weed seeds will also be made sterile.
We hosed it all down at the end and covered it lightly with sacks to make the water run off a bit so the nutrients weren't all lost.
The style of compost heap is known as a Berkley compost.. and in 3 or 4 days it needs to be turned, so that the outer layers which won't be as hot as the centre, get a chance to 'cook'. It then needs to be turned several more times in following weeks, and it's ready for use in 3 wks.
Because the centre of the pile becomes extremely hot, and we used a bamboo pole to make a chimney of sorts.. making a vent to let heat escape, because apparently compost heaps can get so hot they combust.
The animal poo wasn't smelly at all, and the compost wasn't either. If the compost starts to smell it's a sign it's anaerobic, which can occur if it gets waterlogged too.
Berkley compost:
A-live
D-iversity
A-erobic
M-oisture
The carbon component can be made up of straw, dry plant material, hay, leaf debris gathered from the chook forage area.
Nitrogen component is from manure and legume leaves (when green), pig poo, duck poo, chicken poo.
Air
Water
A compost heap can create enough heat to provide hot water to your home! Jean Pain came up with this great concept... here's a short vid on how it works.
Check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Jm-c9B2_ew
Monday, February 20, 2012
Succession - reforesting
After a cyclone, lanslide, bushfire...
First thing to colonise:
Herbs, grasses, clover
these hold the soil and the vegetative cover invites wallabies, rabbits, birds an herbivores to come in and bring the nutrient of their manure. These animals disperse seeds from their feet, pelts and through their manure.
Secondly:
Woody pioneers
woody stems with lots of leaves, berry plants, lantana, raspberry, tobacco.. all these plants have amazing fibrous root systems and lots of leaf drop. They shade out the first species. They provide a habitat for birds to nest, providing greater deposits of manure.
Then comes the Tree Pioneers
Nitrogen fixing trees, bacteria, microrisy (beneficial fungus) which protects trees from root rot, brings water from 1km away. Rosobium bacteria sugars from tree roots.
This progression from grasses to tree pioneers is underpinned by the development of a fungal dominated soil from its beginnings as a bacteria dominated soil.
First thing to colonise:
Herbs, grasses, clover
these hold the soil and the vegetative cover invites wallabies, rabbits, birds an herbivores to come in and bring the nutrient of their manure. These animals disperse seeds from their feet, pelts and through their manure.
Secondly:
Woody pioneers
woody stems with lots of leaves, berry plants, lantana, raspberry, tobacco.. all these plants have amazing fibrous root systems and lots of leaf drop. They shade out the first species. They provide a habitat for birds to nest, providing greater deposits of manure.
Then comes the Tree Pioneers
Nitrogen fixing trees, bacteria, microrisy (beneficial fungus) which protects trees from root rot, brings water from 1km away. Rosobium bacteria sugars from tree roots.
This progression from grasses to tree pioneers is underpinned by the development of a fungal dominated soil from its beginnings as a bacteria dominated soil.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Seed saving and seed banks
A big reason for my interest in commencing permaculture studies is to do with food security. I want to ensure self sufficiency through growing my own produce, collecting the seeds, and replanting the next season to develop robust crops, that are suited to this climate and environment. It makes such sense to create community seed banks where seeds can be traded and local food security can be maintained.
So much of what we can buy from stores is genetically modified.. seeds and produce.
I have a few store bought herbs growing in my garden right now that i have been contemplating pulling out.. to remove GM plants or any that i'm uncertain about so that my efforts towards getting heirloom seeds won't be in vain.
So much to learn on this topic and i feel a new passion arising :)
So much to share, as well. this is vitally important knowledge to pass down to my kids.. cos who knows what kind of food will be around when they're grown up trying to source healthy food for themselves and their families.
So much of what we can buy from stores is genetically modified.. seeds and produce.
I have a few store bought herbs growing in my garden right now that i have been contemplating pulling out.. to remove GM plants or any that i'm uncertain about so that my efforts towards getting heirloom seeds won't be in vain.
So much to learn on this topic and i feel a new passion arising :)
So much to share, as well. this is vitally important knowledge to pass down to my kids.. cos who knows what kind of food will be around when they're grown up trying to source healthy food for themselves and their families.
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Hand tools
Our work day at school is each Wednesday. We do what needs to be done around the property, and Robyn cooks us up a great nutritious meal we all share.
Today we took every tool out of the shed and learnt their names, learnt about their use and then learnt how to clean and care for them.
We de-rusted a lot of tools that had a crust of rust due to exposure to the elements, then oiled them with linseed oil to protect them.
Most of the tools with a sharp edge can be sharpened with a gardeners stone available from gardening shops. We sharpened secateurs, sickles, a scythe and bladed tools.
Today we took every tool out of the shed and learnt their names, learnt about their use and then learnt how to clean and care for them.
We de-rusted a lot of tools that had a crust of rust due to exposure to the elements, then oiled them with linseed oil to protect them.
Most of the tools with a sharp edge can be sharpened with a gardeners stone available from gardening shops. We sharpened secateurs, sickles, a scythe and bladed tools.
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